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The time evolution of the maximal horizontal surface fluid velocity for an irrotational wave approaching breaking

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)468-475
Number of pages8
JournalJournal of Fluid Mechanics
Published10 Mar 2015

King's Authors

Research Groups

  • King's College London


We derive an equation that relates the evolution in time of the maximum of the horizontal fluid velocity at the surface of an irrotational deep-water plunging or spilling breaker to the first component of the pressure gradient at the surface. The approach applies to overhanging wave profiles, up to breaking time.

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